“Discover the Rich History and Unique Specialties of Baku, Azerbaijan in Just 36 Hours!”
Embarking on a spontaneous 36 Hours journey in Baku Azerbaijan.
Baku, Azerbaijan, truly caught me by surprise. My knowledge of this country was rather limited and this marked my inaugural venture into Western Asia. As we had to spend only 36 Hours journey in Baku Azerbaijan. Therefore, I decided to delve into online resources before setting foot in this intriguing land.
My research revealed that the Republic of Azerbaijan is situated in the South Caucasus region of Eurasia, serving as a pivotal crossroads between Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Its geographical boundaries encompass the Caspian Sea to the east, Russia to the north, Georgia to the northwest, Armenia to the west, and Iran to the south. Additionally, the exclave of Nakhchivan is surrounded by Armenia on its north and east, while Iran encompasses its southern and western borders. To the northwest, it shares an 11-kilometer-long border with Turkey.
Notably, the modern Republic of Azerbaijan is a predominantly Muslim nation, having declared its independence on August 30, 1991, just before the dissolution of the USSR during the same year. This newfound knowledge filled me with excitement as I realized that Azerbaijan’s strategic location makes it contiguous with all the countries I had ever dreamt of visiting. As an avid food enthusiast, I also anticipated no difficulties in finding delectable halal cuisine during my stay.
Upon reaching Baku, we enjoyed a swift 2.5-hour direct flight from Dubai, UAE. Hyder Aliyev International Airport welcomed us with a pleasant lack of crowds, allowing for a smooth arrival. Our driver warmly greeted us and escorted us to the awaiting car parked in the designated area. Stepping out of the airport, a refreshing blast of cold air brushed against my face. I eagerly hopped into the car, where the heater had already been thoughtfully activated, and our journey began.
As we made our way to the hotel, the scenery along the route was nothing short of breathtaking. The landscape, historic shrines, and traditional cultural houses all contributed to the enchanting experience. It became evident that Baku, often dubbed the “city of winds” or a “city on the hill,” had evolved into a vibrant urban center. Presently, Baku boasts a rich cultural tapestry, featuring 30 museums, 7 theaters, 11 higher education institutions, opera theaters, film studios, cinemas, and libraries. Additionally, it has established itself as a hub for various industries, including oil refineries, petrochemicals, chemicals, food production, light manufacturing, building materials, and electrical engineering, and serves as a significant rail junction and port terminal along the Caspian Sea.
On the first day of our adventure, we quickly realized that English was not widely spoken, neither among the locals nor our driver. It was only the hotel staff who had a modest grasp of the language. To bridge the communication gap, we resorted to simple English, non-verbal gestures, and even installing the Google Translator app on our mobile phones. The chilly weather was a stark contrast to what I was accustomed to, prompting me to request our driver take us to a place where I could procure some warm clothing. The evening was not fruitful in terms of visiting places, and we had to rush to get some warm jackets and hats to keep ourselves warm. Therefore, we visited “28 Mall,” located in the heart of Baku, where around 70 international and local brands, various coffee shops, and car parking spaces were available. I bought a fine black leather jacket to cope with the weather.
On the second day, we woke up till 8:30 am, did breakfast, and got ready for Gabala/Qabala by 10:30. The driver informed us that we were late for Gabala, so we changed our plan to explore a “mud volcano”. I came to know that 350 out of the 800 mud volcanoes in the world were in Azerbaijan. Mud volcanoes were associated with oil fields and rich oil and gas fields were found in the same territories. The landscape and old houses built along the way reminded me of very old houses watched in Hollywood movies decades ago. The lifestyle of people was quite simple, like villagers used to live in earlier eras. After one hour or so, we reached the “Gobustan National Park Museum, which is located west of the settlement of Gobustan, about 40 miles southwest of the center of Baku. Gobustan, which means ravine place or a dried-up river or valley, is where archaeology discovered petroglyphs in ancient burials, including ancient human bones and animal bones, which may have been clues to the human presence thousands of years ago. The Great Sphinx of Giza, with the pyramid of Chefren Egypt in 2525 B.C., the heritage of Zoroastrianism, was the most ancient religion in the I and II millennia B.C. Work tools, pots, and ornaments founded thousands of years ago are also kept in the museum. Prehistoric people perceived that the whole world was inhabited by spirits. There were some special places where the supernatural could be felt. To the extent that Gobustan was certain to be such a place. Even today, “Beyukdash Mountain” in Gobustan is visited by locals as part of wedding ceremonies.
Nearby, there was Gobustan rock art. Prehistoric people made that art on rocks and worshipped them. Different idols and weird animal drawings could be seen on the rocks.It took us another hour to reach Yanar Daag (Fire Mountain), and I was astonished to see the base of the mountain lit up with fire. The locals said that the flame had not gone out since the 14th century. The natural gas within the mountains had kept the fire burning. I spent a few minutes there to keep myself warm.
The next destination on the journey was the Fire Temple (Ateshgah), located in Suru Khani Town. Interestingly, in Tat, the language spoken by the Persian people around the Caspian Sea, “SuruKhani” translates to “hole with the fountain.”. There were several holes in this territory from which natural fires sprouted. In some places, natural gas is so close to the surface that it seeps through the upper layers of the soil. When something ignites it, the natural gas can continue to burn for many years and it looks like the earth itself is burning. Ateshgah used to be one of such places. The word Atesh means “fire” in Persian and “Gah” means “bed”. Ateshgah was once known for a natural gas fire that blazed continuously on the hillside. The natural eternal flame went out in 1969, after nearly a century of exploitation of petroleum and gas in the area, but is now lit by gas piped from the nearby city.
Zoroastrians were the primary worshippers at the site. Based on Persian and Sanskrit inscriptions, the temple was used as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. There are 14 Sanskrit, two Punjabi, and one Persian inscription in the Ateshgah. The temple was said to have been built in 1745 AD. We visited the oldest part of Ateshgah; during archaeology excavations, the remains of the earlier building of the temple were discovered there. The cell with four arches was probably the first central altar. Which was later moved to the center of the courtyard. There were many rooms in which different things that were used in rituals were kept, i.e., bowls for water pots, dresses, idols, and statues imitating those of the early era. There was another room in which their god Ganesh statue, along with some artificial fruits as prasaad (food offered to a diety), was kept, and a live sound of Ashlok (Hindu scripture) reminded me of my first trip to a live temple. There was also a room in which some prisoners tied up in chains could be seen. Ateshgah was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1998.
We visited the fortification towers, one of the most significant monuments of the Absheron Peninsula (a city surrounded by a fire temple), built by the ShrivanShah rulers. They comprised a defensive system that protected Absheron against maritime threats.
In the heart of Baku, I found myself at the intriguing Carpet Museum. To my surprise, cameras and jackets were strictly prohibited, so I securely stowed them away in a locker. However, the silver lining was that I could carry my cell phone with me without needing a special ticket for my camera. The museum’s architecture was a sight to behold, resembling a meticulously folded carpet, and it was comprised of three impressive floors. Upon entering, the first floor of the museum offered a captivating journey into the history of Azerbaijani carpet weaving. The exhibition began with the humblest form of carpet, known as “hasir,” which is crafted from woven reeds or cane. It gradually led visitors through a mesmerizing evolution, showcasing more technologically complex and exquisitely crafted forms such as “palas,” “jejim,” “kilim,” “shadda,” “ladi,” “varni,” “zili,” and “sumakh.” As I ventured to the second floor of the museum, I encountered a mesmerizing display of carefully arranged carpet piles. These exquisite textiles were meticulously categorized using the classification system developed by Latif Karimov, a distinguished scientist and artist in the field of carpets.
The second floor of the exposition presents piles of carpet. They are divided into groups according to the classification system developed by Latif Karimov, the scientist and artist of carpets.
On the third floor of the exposition, you’ll find a captivating journey into the rich history of Azerbaijani carpets during the 19th and 20th centuries. This remarkable museum boasts an extensive collection, featuring over 10,000 artifacts that encompass ceramics, exquisite metalwork from the 14th century, ancient jewelry dating back to the Bronze Age, as well as a stunning array of carpets and carpet items hailing from the 17th to the 20th centuries. Additionally, you’ll discover a treasure trove of national garments, intricately embroidered textiles, and applied art pieces from the Modern Age. Notably, the museum fosters knowledge-sharing through public lectures and study courses dedicated to the world of carpets and applied arts.
As you step out of this cultural haven, you’ll stumble upon the enchanting Baku Boulevard, also known as Nationak Park Dęnizkęnarı Milli Park. This picturesque park unfolds along the sun-kissed shores of the Caspian Sea, traditionally commencing at the iconic Freedom Square. It gracefully extends westward, meandering through the historic Old City and beyond. Since the transformative year of 2012, the addition of the Yeni Bulvar (new boulevard) has virtually doubled its length to a sprawling 3.75 kilometers, expanding the delightful promenades all the way to the majestic National Flag Square.
Following the recent expansion, Baku Boulevard now spans an impressive 16 kilometers, ensuring that both the city’s residents and visitors can revel in its splendor. From the elegant Boulevard Hotel nestled in the White City to the grandeur of the National Flag Square, you can savor the entire spectrum of experiences it offers, encompassing a journey that encircles the Water Sports Palace situated at the boulevard’s farthest end.
Within the Boulevard’s realm, you’ll encounter a myriad of cultural gems, including museums, art galleries, inviting shopping destinations, and entertainment centers. Among these attractions, the modern panoramic amusement ride known as the “Devil’s Wheel” stands out as a thrilling highlight. It not only provides an exhilarating experience but also treats you to breathtaking panoramic views of Baku Bay, making it a must-visit spot for those seeking both adventure and scenic beauty.
We became very tired but were still excited to visit an ancient and divine mosque nearby. People used to come from far away to spend some time praying and keeping faith that their prayers were being answered. It’s called the Bibi-Heybat Mosque.It is a historical mosque or shrine that is located six kilometers southwest of Baku, Azerbaijan, on the edge of the Caspian Sea. Fatima al-Sughra (Bibi Heybat), the daughter of Imam al-Kazim, is buried in this mosque. This place is also called “Pir Bibi-Heybat”, Bibi is referred to as an aunt in Azerbaijani and Heybat was the name of her nephew; therefore, her name was addressed as bibi heybat. Local people call it the Fatima al-Zahra (a) Mosque.The mosque was built over the tomb of the daughter, “Ukeyma Khanum, “of the seventh Imam, Musa al-Kazim, who fled to Baku from the persecution of caliphs. On the tomb, there is a stone inscription indicating that Ukeyma Khanum (bibi heybat) belongs to the sacred family: “Here was buried Ukeyma Khanum (bibi heybat), a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, the granddaughter of the sixth Imam Ja’far al-Sadiq, the daughter of the Seventh Imam Musei Kazym, sister of the eighth Imam Riza”.
The mausoleum was built in the time of the Safavid dynasty by the end of the 13th century, but it was destroyed when Stalin conquered the region in 1936; the burial place was completely demolished. However, after the dissolution of the Soviet Union and the independence of Azerbaijan, the president of the country ordered the shrine to be rebuilt. The existing structure, built in the 1990s, is a recreation of the mosque with the same name, built in the 13th century by Shirvanshah Farrukhzad II Ibn Ahsitan II, which was completely destroyed by the Bolsheviks in 1936 as a result of the Soviet anti-religious campaign.When the shrine was destroyed, people visited a mountain, which was assumed to be the worshiping place of Bibi-Heybat. People believed the soldiers who destroyed the shrine were killed in different accidents. They also wrote stories about the punishment of those who played a role in the destruction of the Bibi-Heybat shrine.There are three more holy graves besides Bibi Heybat. Two of Bibi-Heybat’s nieces and a nephew of hers are also buried next to her in that mosque as well.
Regardless of any religion or faith, visitors come and discuss their problems and seek solutions. Supplicate the Almighty through bibi heybat (though the prayers are answered by the Almighty only). I had seen all Muslims united and praying behind one imam (worship leader). People were coming and sitting near the tomb and bowing their heads down out of respect. I also recited Surah Fatiha and prayers. It was recommended when visiting the tomb to step back and face the qibla and while leaving, people were facing the tomb without giving one back to the holy graves. Famous French writer Alexandre Dumas, who visited the mosque in the 1840s, wrote in his book “The World”: The mosque is a place of worship for infertile women; they come here on foot, worship, and within a year gain the ability to give birth. Worshippers distribute sweets and sweet breads to the visitors when their wishes are being fulfilled.
After a wearing day, I discerned that faith is not clinging to a shrine but an endless pilgrimage of the heart,” and bibi heybat united all humanity under one roof.
The next day, we planned to go to Gabala/Qabala, but it took us three hours to reach the destination. The city is located on the bank of the river Demiraparancha. We can view the highest peak of Azerbaijan, Mount Bazarduzi, at 4466 m. Its rivers, chestnut and nut groves, and mineral springs are an ideal place to relax. We took a cable chair ride consisting of four stations to reach the top of the mountain. The mountain was covered with snow and we were freezing. The temperature dropped to a freezing point but kids loved the snow and made snowballs and threw them at each other out of joy. It appeared to us as heaven on earth. The driver told us that it was 4 p.m. and we couldn’t approach further as the time was running short. With a very heavy heart, I accepted, and we started our journey back to the hotel. On the way back, I thanked God that we chose the right time to end our journey, as there were no street lights available and the drizzling had started. The 4-wheel car had to be driven very carefully on a two-way road.
On the last day of our trip, we didn’t have much time because we had to catch our flight. So, we quickly stopped by Hyder Aliyve Museum, Maiden Tower, and Shrivanshah Castle, just to see them from the outside. After that, we walked around Nizami Street and picked up some traditional sweets and saffron. We wish we had more time because Azerbaijan is such a wonderful country with a rich history. Hopefully, in the future, we can return and explore the places we didn’t get to visit this time.
Written By: MZF